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Proj. Cosmo

Nate Bowen

Arturo Chia

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• Phillips head screwdriver
• Tool to strip wires, I use a needle nose pliers or scissor
• Vice grip or crimping tool
• 7,8mm sockets and of course a socket wrench:)
• Pliers to remove fuel hose retaining springs, vice grip is fine
• The new fuel pump:)
• 2" of 3/8" fuel hose (-6AN) and worm gear style 2 hose clamps.  Like the radiator ones except smaller.
• Hacksaw and vice.
• WD-40
• Various drill bits and drill, new bolt (10mm head but smaller bolt).  This depends on the screw being stuck.

Procedure:

• Sorry, I didn't have the camera at this time!  DOH!  I always seem to not have the camera when I need it.
• WARNING:  GAS IS VERY FLAMMABLE TO HAVE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER READY AND NEVER HAVE ANY OPEN SPARKS OR FLAMES NEAR THE TANK.  ALSO TO BE SURE OF NO SPARKS, PULL THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL OFF OF THE BATTERY.
• First you must release all fuel pressure.  To do this you will need to have the car running and then pull the EGI IJN fuse under the hood and let your car die because it will run out of gas.  You should now have very little, or none, fuel in the lines.   Personally I would wait an hour or so to let things cool off and to drain but that is up to you.
• Now go to the back of the car and open the hatch, or use the handy lever next to your seat:)  Pull up the drivers side corner of the carpeting and then the sound dampening material so you can see the frame.  You will see a metal cover with some taped wires going through it.  This is the gas tank access plate.  Unscrew the 4 screws and set them aside.  Now lift the access cover a small amount and you will see 2 fuel lines and a plug.  Unplug it and move the access cover out of the way.  Then   spray a tad of WD-40 on the fuel lines to help the clamps slide down and then move the fuel line clamps down about 2" or so.  Now grab the pliers and twist the fuel line a tad to loosen it up and then while twisting push the line with the phillips.   I found this to be the easiest way to pull them off.
• Now that the lines are off and it is unplugged you can begin removing the pump.   Remove all of the small phillips head screws and be careful not to drop any and put them aside.  Now you can remove the pump assembly.  It will stick to the gasket a tad but should lift right up.  Be carefull when removing it because the fuel level float is on a flimsy steel wire but if you twist the pump a tad you can lift it right out while tilting it about 45°.  You will now have the pump assembly out.  Either make sure not to drop anything in the tank or place a cover over it of some kind.
• Next remove the 4 bolts on the pump.  2 holding the pump wires onto the pump and 2 holding the fuel level sender to the assembly.  Now unplug the sender and the pump and set the wires aside.
• Now is the fun part:)  You will see a phillips head screw on the base of the assembly that holds the pump tight to the pickup tube.  This is actually a bolt with a screw head and WHY they did this I have NO idea, a 10mm head would have worked MUCH better.  Get the correct sized phillips screwdriver and see if you can loosen it.   If you can loosen it and take it out, proceed to the next paragraph but if you had the luck I did, keep reading:)  Bring the assembly to the vice and wrap the pump with some cloth or something.  Turn it upside down so you can access the screw from the top and clamp it down just snug enough so you can drill on the screw but not too tight as to damage the pump.  Now you can try unscrewing it one last time but I ended up stripping mine so I had to drill it out.  With a very small bit drill a starter hole then go one size up and then hack the top of the screw off.  You will now see the size of the bolt so get the biggest bit that is still smaller than the bolt and drill it out.  It may come out with the bit like mine did but I was lucky that it was still threaded!  So now you finally have the screw out and can proceed to change the pump.
• Pull off the plate on the bottom and the rubber stopper and set them to the side.   You can now pop out the fuel pump and a little plastic piece should be on the top.   If not, pull it, the o-ring, and another plastic piece out of the retaining thing (Don't know what to call it).  You should now have an empty fuel pump assembly with the parts sitting around.
• Here comes another fun part.  If you look at the Walbro directions you will see that they want you to use the stock mounting receptacle that the stock pump went in but if you try that you will be able to blow through the fuel hookup at the top of the assembly and feel the air escaping passed the o-ring and that is NOT good.  Imagin it trying to suck fuel with an air leak!  So here is what I did.  If you look at the other parts of the directions you will see one that has some fuel line and two clamps on it.   This is what I decided to do but the problem I thought I might run into was that there would be nothing pushing down on the top of the pump so I couldn't tighten it.   This was not the case and if you follow the next directions it should work.
• Take the hacksaw and chop off the mounting receptacle, where the old fuel pump hooked up to.  JUST the little end piece, NOT the whole tube.  Now take your 2 clamps and place them on the fuel hose.  This method will only work if your fuel hose is nice and stiff.  Now tighten one end real good onto the pump and then slip the other end onto the steel pipe where the old pump went.  Now follow the Walbro directions on how to hook on the filter to the new pump and then place the new rubber damper on the bottom of the pump.  Now place the retaining bracket onto the bottom of the pump on top of the damper and bolt it down like it used to be.  You will now have to push down on the pump while tightening the hose clamp to keep the pump secure.
• Now you will need to strip some wires but first you have to cut off the old circular terminals.  Now strip about 1/2" from the Walbro wires and the old wires.   On the old harness you will see 2 black wires, twist those together and then place the Walbro black wire into the "14" side of the included connectors and the 2 other black wires into the "16" side of the same connector.  Crimp the 2 sides of it and make sure it is a good connection.  Do the same to the 2 red wires.   You should now have the stock plug wired into the new Walbro harness.  Tape up the connections with plenty of electrical tape and then plug them in.  Put the sending unit back on and tighten the connections.  Finally zip-tie the wires so they don't flop around.  You should now have a complete fuel pump assembly!
• Place it back in the tank and tighten things up and you are done!