|This is how to install the Auxillary RPM switch, provided by Matt and an addition by Khoo Tek Khoon.
"INSTALLING THE AUX RPM LIMIT
It is very easy to install for those of you who have never done it before. All you need is to find the 3-pin connector that comes out of the loom next to the programming cable. There will be two of these connectors on most E6K looms. The one you need will have three wires of these colours: Orange (5V) , Red/Black (Signal - Spare A/D) , Black (Ground). The Aux RPM switch is just a switch you will need to wire between the Red/Black wire and the Black. What you run this switch to is up to you. Some run it to a momentary button built into aftermarket gear-knobs.
To enable this function you will need to go to the Input/Output Setup page of
your E6K and go to Spare Input Function. Use the <TAB> key to toggle through
until Aux RPM Limit is selected and then hit <Enter>. A green box will pop up
telling you the Aux RPM limit is now available. Now go to the Main Setup page
and you will now see Auxillary Limit available next to the Primary limit. Set
this Auxillary value to what rpm limit you require while you hold down the
EASY , isn't it :-)
The HITman - Haltech Injection Tuning"
Khoo Tek Khoon's reply
">one you need will have three wires of these colours: Orange (5V) ,
>(Signal - Spare A/D) , Black (Ground). The Aux RPM switch is just a
>will need to wire between the Red/Black wire and the Black. What you run
Hmmm....if I am not mistaken, the switch would be between the Orange and
Red/Black instead. During the Engine Data page, you would see that the aux
rpm cut is activated once there's 5V to the signal, and disengage once
there's 0.5V (the circuit is biased to read 0.5V if there's no connection -
well at least on mine). So, the wiring should be Orange and Red/Black
Also, there's no worry about aux rpm limiting during gear shifts, as the
E6K's rpm cut is very very quick and not like the stock ECU type. The added
advantage of this during gear shifts is that NO BOOST LOST. Normally during
upshifts, the throttle plate closes and forces the engine to go into vacuum.
So when going WOT, the turbo has to repack the air into the engine before
any positive boost is detected.
I've demonstrated the aux rpm limit to so many of my other buddies, and the
first thing they note is that my blow off valve doesn't even sound from the
moment I stage to the end of the run (normally ends in 5th gear).
My car is suffering from worn out pistons rings (vacuum is only about 10in
at idling) and a broken turbo, and I am only running 4-5psi of boost. And
EVERYONE that came in my car couldn't believe it's only 4-5psi (they claim
it feels like 14-15psi). But once I deactivated the aux rpm limit, only then
they realised it wasn't really fast.
A word of advice to those of you going to do this install, wire another
switch in the circuit so that you could manually bypass this aux rpm limit.
City driving with this aux rpm limit is REALLY VERY DIFFICULT.