- This assumes you do not have your Air Pump in.
- Disconnect all hoses from ACV and make sure to remember where they go!
- Unscrew the 3 nuts that hold onto the ACV, we're not talkin about Larry, Curly, and Moe. One of the nuts will be hard to get off if you have ABS.
- You should be able to pull off the ACV with a lot of coaxing if you have ABS but you CAN do it. Pry out the check valve that looks like a wheel with a small screwdriver.
- Unscrew the two nuts holding onto the Split Air Pipe, the thing next to the ACV that goes to the cat.
- Use some kind of abrasive, Sears rotary tool works well, to clean off the old gasket from the manifold on both the ACV and the SAP.
- Now I would recommend changing all of the vacuum lines with your new silicone versions. This will reduce the chance of having a cracked vacuum hose later on.
- Here is EXACTLY how I have my vacuum hoses connected and my car runs fine. There will be 3 metal vacuum lines going between the ACV and then connected to a set of 4 metal vacuum lines near the clutch housing. You can take out the set of 3 metal vacuum lines as one assembly. You will now have the 4 vacuum lines sticking up by the clutch. When looking at them from the front of the car here is how I have them hooked up
- 1st from left is spliced in with 3rd from left and then they both go to any of the nipples on the VDI.
- 2nd from left goes to fuel pressure regulator on the secondary fuel rail.
- 4th from left goes to any nipple on the VDI.
- Boost pressure sensor in hooked into nipple on the lower intake manifold near the firewall.
- Blow Off Valve is hooked into nipple on VDI below the BAC.
- You will now have all 4 nipples on the VDI hooked up, 1 small from under VDI, one big from vacuum hose spider under VDI, and the two above.
- Now with everything plumbed you can put some sealant on the ACV and SAP plate. Just make sure you have it positioned right.
- Here is where the spacer comes in. I made mine out of some plastic pieces I had in my basement. I cut 6 pieces and drilled holes into each of them. This is because on my 1990 the bolts were not threaded all of the way. You may be able to buy the correct sized die to thread it further but I didn't feel like it. I then placed the spacers over the bolts and put the nuts back on.
- Click on the picture to see end result.
- Put the SAP nuts back on and LET DRY! You don't want any leaks, DO YOU?
- Start up your car and see how it runs. You may have to set the idle again.