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Proj. Cosmo

Nate Bowen

Arturo Chia

Old Updates

"I wanted to throw this one out to you guys who are going to, or are,
installing the S and K on the FC3S platform.  This short write-up describes
installing the crank angle sensor (CAS) properly and setting the timing.
I'm not sure about the E6A software; it may apply, as well.  The hardware is
all the same.  The FD3S doesn't apply in this because you guys use some sort
of crank trigger wheel dealywhopper that I'm currently unfamiliar with.
Sorry!  =)

Setting the timing properly on the Haltech (and any other system I'd assume)
is of paramount importance.  This _must be done_ exactly correctly prior to
doing any tuning.  I wasted three weeks, and a killer ride w/ my girlfriend
in the car (not that kind of ride, guys; keep it clean!), because I didn't
have the timing set properly.  I'm still hacked off about that... anyway,
my problem happened to have been the E6K being 30 degrees retarded from its
TDC signal vs. what the engine was actually at.  As a result, all of the
ignition correction maps were 30 degrees too far advanced in firing.  Cute,
huh?

I've seen this as a problem on two other E6 FC3S's so I think it's necessary
to address it.  I advise everybody here to keep ahold of this writeup for
future reference.  It's listed in mine and Jon Kwahk's E6K for the FC3S
notes, but I wanted to throw it out in more detail here for later.

I've been shown two methods for setting the timing.  One of them is Matthew
Leicher aka The HITman's method, and the other being Del @ Haltech USA's
method.  I, personally, like Matt's method because it doesn't require pulley
and front e-shaft hub removal.   However, Matt's method requires that the
e-shaft hub and main pulley pair are not mismatched w/ another pair.  I have
personally (this happened to me, believe it or not) seen these get mixed up
(the wrong pulley pair being put on another front hub then having incorrect
timing marks) and louse timing up.

-- Here's Matthew's (The HITman) method: --

-)  Remove CAS from front cover.
-)  Align the crank (I use a torque wrench w/ a 19mm deep-impact socket on
the front hub bolt) so that the factory pulley's yellow timing marker is on
the timing marker on the front cover.
-)  Remove the black cap off of the top of the CAS.  Insert the CAS, with
both thumbs (or whatever) holding the top gear in-place, with the
trigger/home pickup teeth pointing at 1 o'clock and 7 o'clock, respectively.
Matt has a great picture of this here:

<http://www.hitman.hm/installation.htm> -- about half-way down the page just
past the CAS-E6 trigger wiring diagram.

-)  Depending on the lower-area adjustment point (where you'd swivel the CAS
clockwise or counter-clockwise for fine adjustment), these markers may be a
little off.  In general, aim for the screw holes for the CAS's black cap, as
shown above.
-)  Go ONLINE w/ the E6 and start the engine.  Let it warm up to operating
temperature and idle.
-)  Set the Timing Lock to ON and set the degrees to -5 (5 degrees ATDC in
actuality).  This -5 value is used because it's the reference point up
against the pulley's yellow 5ATDC marker.
-)  Armed with your timing gun, adjust the CAS until the yellow timing
marker is dead-on with the front cover's timing marker.  Once complete, lock
the 10mm locknut down for the CAS.  Re-check the timing again to ensure that
the CAS didn't move any.
-)  Switch Timing Lock to OFF and you're done.  Don't forget to put the CAS
black cap back on.

The Ignition Setup parameters for this method are listen on the same page
(Trigger Angle, Number Of Teeth, Tooth Offset, etc.).

I've noticed on this method that it's possible to have the 70BTDC trigger
angle too far.  If this is the case, set the trigger angle back to 60BTDC.
This happened to Jon K while we were setting his timing.  The CAS needed
"more room" to adjust so we backed the trigger angle off to compensate.

-- Here's Del @ Haltech USA's method: --

-)  Remove CAS from front cover.
-)  Remove the front e-shaft hub (19mm bolt torqued on at ~90ft/lbs) (now's
a good time to perform the front oil bypass pellet disabling modification
[(5) M7 flat washers]) and pulley pair.  Watch it; the front oil bypass
pellet (spring-loaded) may come flyin' out.
-)  Manually crank the engine where the front e-shaft keyway is at 6 o'clock
(straight down)
-)  Remove the CAS's black cap.
-)  Re-insert the CAS with both trigger/home pickups aligned w/ the magnetic
pickup points at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock
-)  Go ONLINE w/ the E6, start the engine, and let it get to operating
temperature to idle.
-)  Set the Timing Lock to ON and set the lock degrees to -5.
-)  Adjust the CAS until the 5ATDC Yellow pulley marker lines up.  Tighten
the 10mm locking nut on the CAS, put the cap back on, check the timing once
more to ensure it didn't move, and then turn the Timing Lock to Off.  You're
done.

A note on underdrive (or replacement, main crank pulleys):  The only change
that is made with a different-than-factory pulley comes in w/ the timing
lock and timing gun reference points.  If there are different timing markers
on the other pulley, say a 0BTDC (TDC) marker as in Jon Kwahk's underdrive
pulley case, then set the Timing Lock degrees to 0.  Then use the timing gun
to adjust the CAS to that 0BTDC/TDC marker on the pulley.  That's it.

The Ignition Setup parameters are as follows:

Trigger Angle = 90BTDC,  Number Of Teeth = 24,  and Tooth Offset = 1.

This method is a bit more precise when setting the CAS back into the front
cover w/ respect to the pickup points inside.  Otherwise, I'd try this
method if the other fails.  I never liked it.  =)

The whole point of all of this is to align the E6 ECU w/ what the "real
world" says about where TDC is.  This has to be calibrated to take advantage
of the E6's ignition control system.  Otherwise, it will all be screwed up
and the car will run like garbage.

B"